Alley Kat, Edmonton

For real craft brew in Edmonton, I was told I had three options: Amber’s, Yellowhead and Alley Kat.  I wasn’t able to get to Amber’s and Yellowhead during my recent visit, but I made it to Alley Kat.  At 15 years old, Alley Kat is the elder statesman of Edmonton craft brewing.  My rather limited past exposure to craft brew in Alberta had given me a bad attitude about it.  I had encountered only anemic ales with milquetoast hopping, little flare, often yeasty, and decidedly British in style.  Alley Kat overturned my bad attitude.

Alley Kat is located in an industrial /warehouse area north of the Whitemud and just off 99^th St. NW.  Less than a block west of 99th, 60 Ave. ends at a little cul-de-sac/parking area hemmed in by three low-lying buildings.  You’ll see Alley Kat in the warehouse building just to the south.  

 

It was my luck to find owner Neil Herbst at the tasting bar.

When I arrived, Neil was shooting the breeze with Terry Cameron and his wife.   Terry is the owner of Roughneck Brewing in Calmar, Alberta.   

Neil and the Camerons were at the tasting bar sampling the Apple Wit, the fourth in Alley Kat’s series of 15^th anniversary beers.  Though I passed on the Apple Wit (I’m not much of a Wit or fruit beer fan), the three of them agreed it was quite nice.  Their verdict was independently confirmed by my nephew later in the day.  Nathan and I were headed to SugarBowl for supper, and as we discussed the Edmonton craft brew scene, Nate specifically mentioned Alley Kat’s Apple Wit as one of the outstanding local offerings.  I probably should have tried it when I had the chance - I doubt I’m going to run into it in Western Washington any time soon.

I asked for an IPA and was informed they didn’t brew one.  What?  I can understand being out of IPA, but you don’t even brew one?   I’m not sure if I heard right, but I think Neil said they’d never brewed one.   In 15 years?  Really?  They’d brewed a double IPA once, but that was it.  I made a quick assessment: The folks at the tasting bar were drinking Apple Wit and the company apparently had something against IPA - things weren't boding well for Alley Kat.  I remembered that Alberta breweries aren’t IPA crazy like the West Coast, but still . . . never in 15 years?

Neil said they had an American Pale that was pretty aggressively hopped; even borderline IPA, he said.  They were just tapping the keg and it wasn’t ready to pour yet, so they popped a bottle and poured me a taste.   To say I was skeptical would be an understatement.  I mean, a microbrewery that doesn’t brew an IPA and pours me a bottled Pale instead?  I figured I’d have a quick swig and head for the door, but I was pleasantly surprised.   The Pale was exactly as described – aggressively hopped and very close to an IPA.  Packed with Cascade and Centennial hops, it was definitely an American Pale and not a Golding-dominated Brit like you typically find at the Canadian microbreweries.  The keg was soon pouring, so I followed up the bottled taster with a proper glass of draught.  It was exactly like the bottled version only a little more vibrant.   

We chatted about the local craft beer scene and Neil gave me a quick tour of the brewing facility. 

 

 Really quite an impressive operation.  The facility is extensive and has a far higher capacity that I would have guessed.  Check it out for yourself at http://www.flickr.com/photos/39938408@N07/with/3672657857/

After the tour, Neil popped open a bottle of Unity Brew for me.   

Drinking bottled beer at a microbrewery again seemed a bit odd, but again I was impressed with the beer itself.  A dozen or so brewers in Alberta collaborated on the recipe for this Amber, and Alley Kat brewed and bottled it.  Brewed with Amarillo hops exclusively, I thought it was an extraordinarily good Amber.   As you’d expect, bitterness was limited, malt sweetness was prominent, and the Amarillos set it apart from your typical Amber.

In its 15 years of operation, Alley Kat has garnered a number of awards that are smartly displayed on the wall of the tasting room.   As I was there in the fall, the shrine featured a harvest theme.

Check out the list of awards at http://www.alleykatbeer.com/awards.htm

Because I was driving (and a borrowed car at that), I decided against sampling anything else, so Neil sent me on my way with a bottle of Ochsner's 1905 Alberta Porter.  The recipe for this very robust coffee/chocolate porter was created by Ray Duperron and Patrick Doyle, winners of the Edmonton Homebrewers Guild's 2010 HomeBrewer of the Year award, brewed and bottled by Alley Kat, and created for Sherbrooke Liquor, which sponsors the contest.  Sherbrooke, by the way, has an outstanding selection of over 800 bottled beers.  The porter is black and has great mouthfeel.  Starts coffee, turns chocolate, lingers sweetly for a moment and finishes dry.  Very interesting and full.

The tasting room is small and simple.  Alley Kat does not have food; it is strictly a retail store and tasting room.  Stop in for a few tastes and buy bottles of your favorites. 

I tried Alley Kat Amber at Louisiana Purchase restaurant one evening.  Great meal, but the Amber wasn’t a good pairing with my spicy supper.  Very sweet. 

I expect to be back in Edmonton in June and will try Amber's and Yellowhead.  I'll also return to Alley Kat.  It was a great find.

Cheers!